Ryde's
building boom continued up to about 1850 when problems caused by the
town's
rapid expansion started to become apparent. Two events stand out
in this period; the construction of a pier in 1814 which enabled
commerce
to continue without being subject to the vagaries of the tides, and the
gaining of town status in 1829. A piped water supply and sewers
were
constructed from 1854 onwards. About this time too, a new
esplanade
was constructed eastwards across the old "dover" on reclaimed land
towards
Appley.
During this period, many pubs and hotels were opened to
cater for Ryde's expanding population and growing appeal to
holiday-makers.
A number of local brewers started production to help slake the thirst
of
the developing town. Some brewed from their own pubs, others from
dedicated sites.
The 1859 Edition of White's Directory of Hampshire and
the Isle of Wight lists the following breweries in the town:
George Clements of 13 Castle Street
Louisa Lake of the Eagle, 37/38 High Street
W.B. Mew and Co. of 19 Union Street
Edward Sweetman of 47 George Street
William Tarver of the Anglesea Tavern
James Woodrow of the Crown, High Street
James Lake of the Lion Brewery, High Street
Edward Sweetman brewed from the site of what is now the Commodore
Bingo Hall, his direct outlet being a pub known as the St. George and
Dragon
situated opposite the present library. Although Sweetman's
produced
a brochure about their brewery, the pub unfortunately was not featured.
To all accounts, it was a small dark alehouse,
frequented
by old retired brewery men who smoked foul smelling pipes and spat
frequently
into the streets outside.
Mr. Clement's brewery was roughly where the west wing
of the present Esplanade Hotel is sited and was accessed from Castle
Street.
He was later to sell out to William Baron Mew of Newport who had
designs
on dominating the brewing trade in the town.
George Lake brewed from a site at the top of George
Street,
now a car park at the rear of Ryde Job Centre with access through
to Warwick Place. It was known as the Eagle Brewery and was first
listed in 1822. His son James Lake started the Lion Brewery from
a pub first known as the George on the corner of Garfield Road and the
High Street in 1855. The site is currently occupied by a branch
of
Currys. The Lake family gave their name to the one existing pub
once
owned by them, the Lake Huron in Haylands, now that the Lake Superior
has
sadly gone.
The local
brewers tended to cultivate their own chains of tied houses and most of
the pubs that still exist today were constructed in the period up to
1877.
A fierce rivalry existed between them and occasionally within families
as well. Edward Sweetman Jnr. was a prime player in this
scenario.
He set up his own operation in competition with his father's brewery
from
an adjacent site, taking over the brewhouse at the rear of the Anglesea
Tavern after William Tarver retired in the 1870s.
He expanded his trade to include the Castle Hotel in the
High Street and built the famous London Hotel at the top end of the
town
at the beginning of the 20th century. This venture, however, was
to prove his financial ruin as he never recouped his expenditure on
that
project.
James Woodrow originally had a small brewery in Union
Lane, also
known as Brewhouse Lane in 1839, but moved the major part of his
operation
to the Crown Hotel in St. Thomas's Square by 1855. He ceased
brewing
in 1871.
Brewery takeovers began and when in 1865 John Cooper died
in mysterious circumstances, his brewery was bought up and subsequently
closed by Edward Sweetman Snr. Poor old Mr. Cooper was found
drowned
in a large barrel of beer from which he could not be extricated.
Whether it was an accident, murder or suicide was never
determined.
The vessel was dragged into Union Lane as a large crowd of townsfolk
gathered
and brewery workers set about demolishing it with sledgehammers.
When the barrel finally burst, Ryde's sots were ready with buckets and
jugs to scoop up the flood of beer as it gushed down the road.
Cooper's
Ale was obviously a brew with 'body'.
Among the tied houses to his brewery estate is a reference
to the elusive Barley Mow in Player Street. This establishment
never
found its way into any of the local trade directories for the period
and
the only other listing for it was on the town map of Ryde dated
1865.
Presumably Edward Sweetman Snr. had no use for it and it was
closed.
The other three pubs in the Cooper Estate, were the Wheatsheaf, the
Oakfield
Inn and the Roadside Inn in Nettlestone.
In 1877 Edward Sweetman Snr. acquired the Eagle brewery
from Louisa Lake, closed it down and used the buildings as a
store.
The little Eagle Brewery Tap survived until 1972 and die to its
location,
ticked away behind the High Street, was known affectionately as "The
Hole
in
the Wall." Sweetman's George Street premises became the largest
brewery in Ryde until bought out by Mew Langton of Newport in
1921.
Meanwhile, a James Garland Duffett took over the Lion Brewery from
James
Lake in 1878. With the closure of this site in 1922, brewing
ceased
in the town.
The two brewers who now dominated the trade in Ryde were
Brickwood's
and Mew Langton. The Brickwood family, though based in
Portsmouth,
always had a close connection with the Isle of Wight and many family
members
lived in the Bembridge area. Both companies had depots in Newport
and drays and later steam lorries supplied their now numerous public
houses.
Great
rivalry existed between the two companies which did not cease until
they
both came under the Whitbread umbrella in the 1960’s.
Despite rationalisation by the Whitbread giant one could still see
examples
of this rivalry until recently, as in Elmfield where the Mew Langton
Lake
Superior sat opposite the Brickwoods High Park Tavern.
Still within recent memory in St. John's Road, Mew's
held the license of the Bedford Hotel opposite the Brickwood's New Inn,
both now sadly gone.
Because the initial 19th century development began
in lower Ryde, old seafront inns were demolished to make way for larger
and more prestigious establishments. The Royal Eagle and Albany
replaced
the earlier ramshackle Three Guns and Fighting Cocks. Cluitts
Refreshment
Rooms, also known as the Original Inn, was demolished and replaced by
the
King Lud, the building not receiving its mock Tudor cladding
until
some years later.
Large hotels such as the Royal Pier Hotel, The Esplanade
and the Osborne were constructed. Many of them had small tap bars
to the rear of their premises, for the use of tradesmen and artisans.
The coming of the railway in the 1860s brought more trade
and pubs with railway connections. The Terminus and Railway Inn
in
St. John's Road are obvious candidates. However, the Terminus
underwent
a strange transformation when the adjacent road bridge was built over
the
line. The ground floor disappeared beneath the road level to
become
cellars and the first floor became the public area. The Terminus
stands empty now but the Railway Inn opposite happily survives, as the
Hole in the Wall.
Many of the town's smaller pubs held a beer licence only,
and opened in private dwellings to help supplement the householder's
income.
They proliferated after the Duke of Wellington took measures to
counteract
the effect of gin drinking by encouraging the consumption of
beer.
Goldbourne's Beerhouse Act of 1830 enabled any householder to obtain
from
the Excise, on payment of two guineas a year, a licence to sell beer by
retail in his dwelling house. These beerhouses were often run by
the wife of the householder and provided a second income. They
were
invariably primitive establishments usually consisting of a front room
or parlour of a small back street house. Sanitation and hygiene
were
usually very poor or non-existent.
Towards the ends of the 19th century the tide was
beginning
to turn against alcohol consumption with the rise of the Temperance
Movement
and the increasing public perception of drunkenness as anti-social
behaviour.
With this came the strongly expressed opinion by the Police to the
Magistrates
that the law was being broken by the beerhouses in an effort to stay
solvent,(i.e.)
drinks were being served to customers out of licensing hours. The
Licensing Act of 1904 set up a Compensation Scheme funded by the pub
trade
itself. Contributions were levied upon the licensed premises in
the
area and closure of "uneconomic" or "unsuitable" premises could be
recommended
to the Compensation Authority in Winchester.
The old beerhouses dating from before 1869 were
now brought under the control of the Licensing Magistrates. An
active
policy of opposing the renewal of licences was adopted by the police
involving
random surveillance designed to determine the average numbers of
customers
using a pub, or indeed, the lack of them. Closure based on these
observations would then be recommended to the Licensing
Magistrates.
Appendix 3 gives an example.
In 1905 the Chief Constable of Ryde made his objection
to the number of licensed premises in the town the subject of his
annual
report, and the first of several waves of closures began. Much is
made of Ryde's position at the head of a league table of licensed
premises
per head of town population.
Over the next sixty years, the number of public houses
declined steadily but even up to 1970 the town still possessed a varied
selection of interesting and original pubs which formed an important
part
of the social fabric. Many were the focus for small local
communities
and their landlords and landladies well-known local characters.
However,
as the 1970s progressed and Brickwood's and Mew Langton disappeared as
local brewers, a national company came to dominate 95% of the town's
tied
trade
When the Whitbread giant decided to rationalise its local
holdings, the number of licensed premises shrank to about twenty-five
over
the following twenty years. By the time government legislation
was
enacted to curb the abuse of local monopolies by national brewers, it
was
all too late and many fine pubs were gone forever. At the time of
writing, in 1996, the number of breweries holding licences in the
town has again increased. Now Gales of Horndean, Courage,
Ushers
and even the newly re-formed Burts Brewery are leasing pubs in Ryde.
The pubs in this book are grouped geographically rather
than alphabetically but the Index lists all the names by which an
establishment
is, or has been known. It has been often said that Ryde was "over
licensed" as a town, but although many old pubs deserved to go, many
did
not and all were to be sadly missed.
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